We could have had one last safari, making six, before we left Gondwana. But the last two had taken a toll on my tummy that I just couldn’t shake. The effect was worse than the roughest seas on the cruise and Don was happy to be done as well. We decided to get an early start for Franschhoek (pronounced: Fran-chook). We knew we were running low on energy and we had to save some for whatever might happen on our trip home.
When we said farewell to Felix we could tell he was very worried about his family and how he would support them. Gondwana had announced they would be winding down at the end of that week, keeping only a basic crew to maintain the reserve.
‘last one out, turn off the lights’
Just as when we had arrived to a welcoming committee, we left with a cheeky farewell from the Gondwana inhabitants. As we drove past small towns and townships* we felt quite heavy and sad, for we could see what was coming. In the townships people live very close together and many have poor hygiene and no transport, so they were hitchhiking rides. A perfect ‘vehicle’ for an eager virus. Even though the government was being very proactive with regard to the virus, and there were only a few hundred cases at that stage, we just knew what would likely befall them.
The drive was, again, very pretty landscape, and we had a nice, albeit brief, refuel and loo stop in Swellendam. We watched a local woman making ‘rooster bread’ as it is called. There was a little cafe two doors away who would make the dough and this lady came every day to cook the bread for them. She would roll the dough into mounds, then one at a time she would place a mound on the grill and pat it down. When it cooked on one side she turned it over to the other side and then stacked them up ready for the cafe to use. Apparently they put anything in them you would use in a sandwich. I would loved to have tried one, but we weren’t the least bit hungry so I asked to take the photos and thanked the woman, and we were on our way again.
We drove through the Franschhoek Pass to get to the town and so we had a stunning view of the area even before we’d arrived. This region, as with Stellenbosch, was famous for wine, but we were not going to experience that side of things on this trip, due to the alcohol restrictions. Our accommodation was a rather unusual place, set beautifully with the mountain as backdrop and a stunning scene from the outside tables as well. The L’ermitage Franschhoek Chateau was what I would call a group of holiday apartments, large bedroom and sitting area, with kitchenette and luxurious bathroom. There were all kinds of balconies and outside areas to sit which we used to advantage, while planning our activity for the following day. The place was even set out for weddings, with its own chapel and small reception hall. That evening there was a small wedding and reception, without alcohol but nonetheless enjoyed.
When it came right down to it, the town was mostly empty and with the wineries and museums closed we had to get a bit creative. We had seen something about a large organic farm a short drive from town and decided we would drive there and see if they were open. Again, we were lucky. They were open and due to small crowds, we had a private tour around the main gardens. It was their last day to be open due to lockdown measures and it was the most incredible place of that type we have ever visited. Babylonstoren** used their own organic produce to make nearly everything that was sold on the farm. There was a winery (closed, of course), a farm shop with dairy products, breads, meats, olives and many other things. The Scent Factory used their own herbs to make soaps, creams, perfume and other products. Also there were two restaurants, one that served large meals and one with smaller offerings, called The Greenhouse, our choice later in the afternoon. The lamb and olive pie, halloumi and salad sandwich and a shared dessert, were all homemade using their own organic ingredients.
It was the most relaxing, nourishing and calm place you can imagine and a perfect choice for our last full day in South Africa.
The last morning we were away smartly, though CapeTown was only an hour’s drive. By the time we filled the car with petrol, dropped off the rental and got to the airport several hours had elapsed. We had an hour or so to wait but we had eaten breakfast before departing L’ermitage, even though breakfast was being served in the airport lounge. I noted the food was all open and subject to any airborne germs that might be around, so I was glad I wasn’t hungry. I was pretty sure that uncovered food would not be the case for much longer. We could feel the tension everywhere.
So you see, the things we worry will happen to us, seldom do. And the things that we never see coming are the ones to bring us undone. Our bags were never lost. We were never sick, or seasick. I seldom had any problem finding food I could eat or the appropriate clothes from my suitcase. Even my pants fit perfectly to the very end.
Big challenges yield big memories…and they don’t get much bigger.
Thank you for traveling with me.
The return trip that takes up from here is here.
*townships are loosely equivalent to Indigenous communities in Australia, or Indian reservations in the USA
**Babylonstoren, so called because of the various languages in South Africa, having been settled by the French Huganots and the Dutch centuries before. And ‘storen’ is the word for ‘hill’ taken from one of those languages. The garden was designed by French architect Patrice Taravella.
chalkandcheesetravels said:
Franschhoek is beautiful we were there last year. Enjoyed the post very much great memories
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Ardys said:
I’m so glad you enjoyed the post. It was a strange time to be there, but we still enjoyed it very much.
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chalkandcheesetravels said:
I can imagine it was. You will have to make it an excuse to go back again 👍
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anne54 said:
Your posts from South Africa really give the feeling of doors closing right behind you. It is such a shame, because it seems like a beautiful and friendly place, where you could have explored more. Your photos give a really good feel.
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Ardys said:
Thank you Anne. Yes, while we would liked to have done a bit more, we were fortunate to get to do most of what we had planned. South Africa was just as you observed, beautiful and friendly.
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Kim Smith said:
My gosh, the photos here are stunning, Ardys! I haven’t read all of your earlier posts about this trip yet because I thought it would make me sadder about what I assume will be a couple of years without travel for me. But reading this one has been a mood lifter for me, so I’m looking forward to reading the rest of the stories.
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Ardys said:
Well, I sure hope the other posts don’t make you sad, Kim. I tried to write each one as a little story in itself, while continuing the thread of the overall five week story. I felt as if we had crammed years worth of events into that five weeks and that it might be interesting to others as well, especially given world events. Best wishes, Kim. x
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daleleelife101.blog said:
That shooting starlit shaft of good fortune shining upon your travels didn’t fail you… It’s remarkable given the circumstances that your journey seemed to have attracted less hitches then would be usual even in easier times… Franschhoek looks wonderful… I love the phonetic name… Babylonstoren looks magical… I think spending a week around there wouldn’t be long enough. Thank you so much for all the insightful photographs that allowed us to enjoy the journey with you via Insta, and these chronicles… I hope you enjoyed writing and finding the best photos, as much as I enjoyed reading them.
South Africa and other vulnerable countries and their people are on my mind… no matter that Australia is faring well… humanitarian crises belong to us all.
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Ardys said:
We have travelled enough in our lives to know that SO many things could have gone wrong, and came so close a few times, but never did. It’s inexplicable really, so one must assume the shooting star was the reason 🙂 So glad you enjoyed it all. I did enjoy writing it and it is bittersweet that it is finished now. I know what you mean about the humanitarian crises belonging to us all…hoping that if we all do our little bit, the cumulative result will be enough.
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Donna said:
Well, I thouroughly enjoyed reading and virtually experiencing this trip through your eyes Ardys. Your beautiful photos and detailed descriptions drew me right in and left me a little hesitant to leave. In many ways the entire trip seemed “charmed” but am so glad for your having completed the journey mostly as planned. Thanks again for sharing!
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Ardys said:
I’m glad you enjoyed it, Donna. The trip seemed ‘charmed’ to us as well, even as we were going through it. So many times things could have gone wrong but they just didn’t. I wonder if that isn’t the case with everyday life, but we don’t always see it? Thank you for reading, it has been a pleasure sharing it. xx
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Littlesundog said:
I have enjoyed every bit of this adventure, Ardys. Your worries and considerations would have been the very same for me – we think alike. Even the worry that the clothes were appropriate for the trip and conditions… and even that they might not fit at the end of the trip! I also think the more we focus and worry about “what if’s” the more likely we are to attract them to us. And just being sensible and thoughtful go a long way to a smooth journey.
This adventure started out with a shooting star… I’m so glad you had the courage to see where it would take you!
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Ardys said:
It’s interesting that we think so much alike, Lori. I try not to let those ‘anxieties’ get so strong that I’m distracted from the joy of the journey, and mostly I’m pretty successful, but you are right, the careful and sensible planning also help with a smooth journey. Thank you for reading along, I always enjoy your comments. xx
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