After the Captain’s tale of the Somali pirates, most of us would have followed him anywhere. So, when we approached the first of our supposed excursions around the Tristan da Cunha group (Gough Island) if he had said ‘Jump!’, to get into the zodiacs, we might have done it! However, the seas were rough and it was decided it was unsafe for our planned excursion, so we would have to view the island from the ship. The ship was manoeuvred as close as safety would allow and through the mists we could see it was a wild and not easily accessible place.



The next day was better for excursions and during that day we also got a look at the community of Tristan da Cunha…from afar. After exploring the coast of the island, it was nearing the end of the day and the light was gorgeous. Most of us gathered on deck to enjoy the light and the splendid sunset.

This photo, taken on that glorious sunset evening, shows Marcus Bergstrom, from Sweden, and Laura Jordan from France, both Naturalists. They also had excellent command of English, were licensed zodiac drivers, and were excellent photographers. Marcus was the ‘bird guy’ who loved Albatrosses, and Laura has an Instagram feed (@laurajordan_) specialising in photos and videos from this cruise and others. There were ten naturalists in all, some with many years of education and experience and who spoke several languages.
During our visit to Tristan da Cunha there was a very sweet little background story developing. Our local expert, Conrad, had been supposed to stay at his home on Tristan once our tour of the islands finished. However, the town was not even allowing him to disembark! And worse, the town, whose speciality is fresh lobster, was not going to supply the lobster our chef had ordered! This was dire. Conrad would have to accompany us to CapeTown and figure out how to get home later. There are no airstrips so his only choice would be sea travel. Our very creative thinking crew hatched another idea. The afternoon, after we had completed our zodiac cruises of Tristan, we saw a zodiac with Conrad ripping through the waters back toward the ship. In the boat, piled around him, were bags of fresh lobsters, and his lovely wife huddled against him to accompany him for the remainder of his quarantine in CapeTown, however long that might be. His wife had loaded the lobsters and then herself into the zodiac to join her husband and preserve everyone’s safety. Knowing what we do now, we think Conrad and his wife were probably not able to leave South Africa. I guess we will never know.

Before leaving the archipelago we had excursions to the other two islands in this group, Nightingale and Inaccessible. To be perfectly honest, our schedule was now so different from plan A and plan B, I have no idea which of these photos were from which island. Normally when I am confused I just check the metadata on the photos and it will have the place name. But in the Southern Ocean, the photos mostly just say ‘Southern Ocean’. Helpful. It doesn’t really matter, they were very close together and both quite wild and, as the name of the latter would indicate, mostly inaccessible except by zodiac.






COVID-19 news was becoming more and more worrisome with each day. At about this point in the trip, again, the Captain called everyone to the theatre, this time, at 9.30 in the evening. I was beyond tired and Don agreed to attend and tell me the outcome. Based on recent experience we thought it would be serious. It was. The Ponant company had decided to ask all ships to go to the nearest port, disembark passengers and head for home port in Marseilles. This turned out to be extremely good judgement on their part. We were still four days from CapeTown which was the soonest we could get anywhere. All of the crew except for 21, would also have to disembark there, as would those passengers who had been supposed to take the cruise on to Durbin and the Seychelles. The anxiety became palpable. We compared stories of where we were supposed to travel next and how we might amend our plans, while sharing with each other any information we had. Good access to internet meant that we were aware of the rapid changes in conditions since we had departed Ushuaia, but there was not a single thing we could do except communicate with our travel agents and revise plans, until we got to CapeTown. We weren’t even certain if we would be allowed off the ship once we arrived, but somehow the crew kept smiling, all the while working on our behalf behind the scenes.
when is she ever going to end this saga??…soon my pretties, soon…
Wow… this is the nail-biting part of the adventure. I loved how you finished this, “somehow the crew kept smiling”. It’s a kind of shooting star assurance.
Your images are just stunning! Everything is so pristine and beautiful. I have truly enjoyed seeing so much wildlife on this adventure. Even if you felt you did not manage great setups for photography, I feel you did a superb job in difficult circumstances. That is simply part of wildlife photography! You are lucky to get whatever you get because it’s quick fire and unpredictable!
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You are exactly right about the difficult circumstances for photographing wildlife! And every single time we went out, we were constrained by time, and the surroundings were completely different. Even the light was different. It was very challenging. Coming from someone who takes beautiful wildlife photos, I really appreciate your comments, Lori. xx
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Aw, thank you, Ardys. I’m just fortunate to get decent shots. And of course, my subjects are my orphaned kids. That gives me the skinny on close ups and lots of chances to get just the right pose. In fact, I often wonder if they’re showing off for the camera! Those penguins sure seemed to be fearless and curious!
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In direct contast to their inaccessibility the beauty of the islands begs tangible investigation… but not to be. At least the lobster situation was resolved, I hate to think of them going to waste. As the days passed and the Covid-19 situation developed I was torn between happiness that you were safe onboard and concern that your destination was so far from home. That you are experienced travellers familiar with the reaility of things not going to plan and coping, I knew was key… plus good fortune… scatterings of that shooting star.
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It seemed to us that this trip was the culmination of all of our travels. It required skilful planning, cool heads to cope with the ever changing situation, and contextual experiences enabling us to enjoy each place to the maximum…and yes, lots and lots of good fortune. I have no doubt whatever that somehow, we were being looked after. Thank you for your ever thoughtful comments Dale. They continually elevate these writings. xx
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I’m slowly getting caught up on your trip posts. Love the seaweed photo — I can imagine how pretty it must have been moving around on the water surface. Such gorgeous scenery everywhere!
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Thank you for reading, Kim. I’m glad you are enjoying the photos. Everywhere we went was gorgeous, hard to believe really. Keep well.
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