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ardysez

~ surrender to yourself

ardysez

Category Archives: Darwin

those three little words…

01 Wednesday Jun 2016

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, photography, Travel

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

Australia, Darwin, Travel

If you already know the meaning of ‘relative humidity’* you won’t need to refer to the paragraphs at the end of this post, either way I don’t think you will really need it, but it’s there just in case. All I know for certain is, everything is relative. My four days and five nights in Darwin were, relatively miserable, temperature-wise and humidity-wise–but otherwise, it was a good break, if by ‘good break’ you mean makes you really appreciate being home again.

I decided some weeks ago to accompany my mostly sensible husband to Darwin while he participated in the NT Golf Open. I think he would agree with me in saying he didn’t actually compete, because competing would be another relative thing, as compared to endure, I suppose. Let’s just say he was not in the hunt for top honours. He did finish in front of  a handful of players out of the 200+ field so I suppose that is something. And more’s the pity, he did not even enjoy it. But I’m sure the next time he considers going to Darwin to play golf, the experience will immediately bring him to his senses. If not, he will have me to remind him, for which I’m sure he will be, not so much grateful as, annoyed.

waterlily-darwin
Waterlily in garden, Darwin
frangipani-flower-darwin
Frangipani blossom, Darwin
Tropical garden
Tropical garden
Qantas-darwin-sunrise
Naturally occurring reflection/montage from Qantas lounge at sunrise, Darwin
view from Stokes Hill Wharf
view from Stokes Hill Wharf
Stokes Hill Wharf, Darwin
Stokes Hill Wharf, Darwin

My plan was to catch up with friends. That was all. We usually stay in the city (small though it is) of Darwin, but this trip we decided to try a ‘boutique motel’ and hire a car. It was small, very small, but perfectly formed, save the very hard mattress; but good air conditioning and that was most important. Wipe that romantic notion about ceiling fans and mosquito nets being adequate in the tropics from your mind’s eye. That is just wrong. 

The suburb of Parap offers several cafés, restaurants, a gourmet food shop, a couple of gift shops and a gallery and a couple of other options, and a Saturday morning market that has always been a favourite, going way back to our days of living in Darwin. We saw the very first few stalls begin to trade about 30 years ago and it has steadily grown into a Darwin institution. Sadly, there is little food from the market I am able to eat these days, but wandering through at 7.30am, humidity at 93% and temperature at 26C (79F) was still worth it to grab a few photos.

parap-market-darwin
Early preparations at Parap Markets
Laneway Café, Parap
Laneway Café, Parap
papaya-local-darwin
Papaya and bananas, locally grown
dumpling preparation Parap Market
dumpling preparation Parap Market
Cyclone Café, Darwin
Cyclone Café, Darwin
cyclone-cafe-breakfast
Cyclone Café breakfast

It was great to catch up with old friends and compare war stories. None of us escapes the ‘stuff’. Just as none of us will get out of this alive. We swap wisdom and compare treatments, catch up on our children and travels and before you know it the afternoon has slipped away. And at the end of the visit we always agree, we are relatively good. Lots of people we know are worse. Perhaps we are a tiny bit delusional too.

We managed to take in a wonderful exhibition by paper artist, Winsome Jobling; and also to fit in a walk along the East Point foreshore, looking back at the city through Poinciana trees that have yet to gain their leaves and flowers because they have yet to get the dry season weather needed for that. It was hard work for me in the morning humidity. Later in the day I was ‘at one’ with that aforementioned hard mattress in the air conditioned motel room.

Rocksitters point
Rocksitters point
Darwin through the Poinciana trees
Darwin through the Poinciana trees
East Point foreshore, Darwin
East Point foreshore, Darwin

To complain about the weather does nothing to improve it, but it was good to know it wasn’t only this desert dweller that was feeling the distress of extreme humidity where dry breezes should have been flowing. The locals were even feeling it.

I gave up drinking hot coffee in preference to iced coffees, had two showers a day and had to hand wash undies and clothes because I forgot the ‘sweat factor’ of the top end when packing for a time when the dry season is not yet in full swing.

We often remark that travel makes us appreciate home more, and this trip was especially true in that respect. But I wasn’t expecting what happened at the end. I arrived home and stepped off the plane onto the tarmac (there are no air bridges at Alice Springs airport) into a morning, post rain showers, where the humidity was exactly 93%, as it had been most of the mornings in Darwin, except that the temperature was 16C (60F), ten degrees below the Darwin temps in the early mornings. It felt glorious! And that, my friends, is the perfect illustration of relative humidity. As if blazoned on a neon sign atop the airport terminal it dawned on me, yet again, the wisdom of those three words ‘everything is relative’.

IMG_8687

home again, rain and all

(*Here is what Uncle Wikipedia says about relative humidity...“Humans are sensitive to humidity because the human body uses evaporative cooling, enabled by perspiration, as the primary mechanism to rid itself of waste heat. Perspiration evaporates from the skin more slowly under humid conditions than under arid conditions. Because humans perceive a low rate of heat transfer from the body to be equivalent to a higher air temperature,[3] the body experiences greater distress of waste heat burden at high humidity than at lower humidity, given equal temperatures.

For example, if the air temperature is 24 °C (75 °F) and the relative humidity is zero percent, then the air temperature feels like 21 °C (69 °F).[4] If the relative humidity is 100 percent at the same air temperature, then it feels like 27 °C (80 °F).[4] In other words, if the air is 24 °C (75 °F) and contains saturated water vapor, then the human body cools itself at the same rate as it would if it were 27 °C (80 °F) and dry.[4] The heat index and the humidex are indices that reflect the combined effect of temperature and humidity on the cooling effect of the atmosphere on the human body.”)

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by the light of the silvery moon

21 Wednesday Oct 2015

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Life, Travel

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

adventure, Australia, crocodiles, Darwin, life, Northern Territory, Top End, Travel

Top End full moon

Top End full moon circa 1984

When I read other blogs it often causes me to recall memories that have been tucked away in the back of my mind for a very long time. Photographer, Wes, who publishes Alien Shores Photography blog, posted a quote and photo recently, about the full moon, which illuminated an old memory, out of the dark recesses.

Us at Jabiru, Mt Brockman and Ranger Uranium Mine in background

Us at Jabiru, Mt Brockman and Ranger Uranium Mine in background

A good catch of Barramundi

A good catch of Barramundi

When Don and I were first married, he had a tradition of going camping and fishing every year on the full moon in May. He wanted me to come along and continue the tradition so I did. The reasoning behind that particular time of year was because it was the end of the wet season. The billabongs would be full of fresh water and the barramundi, the prized fish to catch, would not taste muddy as they sometimes did at the end of the dry season when water levels were lower, and muddier. Also, the full moon enabled people to have much needed extra light when camping far out in the bush, where there was no light at all, save a campfire, and what you carried with you…a torch (flashlight).

I was initiated into this particular tradition not quite a year after I came to Australia’s tropical north, Darwin. In our ‘boiler suits’ (long-sleeved coveralls), worn to protect from the mosquitoes, we sweltered. Bathing seemed like a civilised remedy, until I saw how it had to be done. The other couple we were with, got into their bathing suits and rowed the dinghy a small way out into the billabong. Then, carefully, each dipped a bucket into the billabong and tipped it over the other one. The balancing could be tricky… They washed with a bit of soap, and then repeated the bucket dipping to rinse. That was a billabong bath. That happened on the second night of our camp. What happened on the first night was the thing that kept me sweaty…

A billabong bath

A billabong bath

As dark descended that first night, and the full moon peeked over the horizon, my husband and I piled into our dinghy, and the other couple into theirs. We motored quietly over the billabong with a torch in hand. We were looking for red eyes. The red eyes of crocodiles. We found them. Even in those days crocs were common, nowadays I wouldn’t even get into a dinghy on that billabong, let alone for a bath, because there are so many huge crocs. In fact, with the increase of crocs around the edges of Jim Jim Billabong, the campground was moved to Mardugal. We would not be allowed to camp where we camped back then. I suppose ignorance was bliss, since we lived to tell the tale. I have no photos of the crocs at night, but here’s one I took from the fishing dinghy, of a big croc sunning itself along the bank.

Yellow Waters Croc

Yellow Waters Croc

My Mother keeps telling me, it’s nice to have great memories, but I’m not quite sure this is what she has in mind! To me they are great memories from an adventurous time in my life–even if experiences I feel no need to repeat! Happy 88th birthday Mum, you can celebrate the fact that I’m still alive too!

Parenti lizard and a fool behind the lens, too close to be safe!

Parenti lizard and a fool behind the lens, too close to be safe!

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old friends, new experiences

02 Sunday Aug 2015

Posted by Ardys in art, Darwin, Life, Recommendations

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

Australia, Darwin, energy, friends, life

darwin-chinese-temple

Chinese Temple, Darwin City

We have been in Darwin the past week. I’m still processing the events. Whenever we visit, I am taken back to memories of the first years of my life in Australia. Because we stay in the city, and our first flat was in the city, these are my old stomping grounds! But not. So much has changed it is hard to grasp. For example, Darwin is much more beautiful now than it was then. But I was newly in love and so it still appeared beautiful to me. But mostly it was, and still is, so unique and diverse.

dried wildflowers by the sea

dried wildflowers by the sea

 

The Esplanade Bicentennial Park area did not exist in its current form and now is a joy for my early morning walks, with many glimpses of the sea just beyond the trees. This time I did something I have never done before, walked down to Lameroo Beach where the very rocky native stones meet the sea. It connected me in a new way; this mountain person who could love living by the sea.

darwin-lameroo-beach

Native stone on Lameroo Beach

Three days were spent with old friends, two days with the same friend who I came to know here in Alice, but who moved to the North 10 or so years ago. Jo is recovering from a brain injury through an accidental fall at work. She is doing very well but is working very steadily at it. She never once bemoaned her bad luck or her ongoing issues of headaches and memory struggles. It was my joy to be able to help her set up a blog page which I commend to you. She is still learning the ropes but I know you will be kind to her. Her first post was so moving, she will most certainly be a fabulous contributor to the blog community. Jo plans to write about her many interests as well as her journey recovering from the brain injury. Because I think you will enjoy her writing and her story, here is a link: https://intralude.wordpress.com/

friends living room in filtered light

my artist friend’s living room in filtered light (Waterlogue edit from original photo)

quilty-after-afghanistan

painting by Ben Quilty

My other dear friend is one I made 30 years ago. We share an interest and practice in art, among other things. This time we attended the ‘After Afghanistan’ Exhibition by renowned, and official war artist, Ben Quilty. Having seen a documentary about his creation of the works, I was still unprepared for how moving they would be in person. You’d think I would know better! They were really about energy–the energy of one’s being that is changed when going off to war. I felt the emotion of several of the pieces as if they were physical blows to my solar plexus. Even thinking back on them now my tummy tightens with emotion. That is art.

quilty-after-afghanistan

painting by Ben Quilty

quilty-after-afghanistan

painting by Ben Quilty

Arriving home yesterday to the flashing button of the answering machine was an inauspicious welcome, as it turned out. My credit card has been compromised. Fortunately the bank was quick to recognise it and so there is only a $7 debit that got through. But now, everything that I normally do with my card, which is EVERYTHING, must be changed over when the new card arrives, probably in about a week. It could have been so much worse, and for that I am grateful.

But it has unhinged me a little. The post I had been working on will wait for another day.

This much I know for sure, and needed no processing…I have loved my life and cherish my friends, who are testaments to that life, as I am to theirs. In the words of German theologian, philosopher, Meister Eckhart “If the only prayer you ever say is ‘thank you’, that will be enough”.

darwin-sunset

Serenity at sunset from Bicentennial Park

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Shaken and definitely stirred!

21 Thursday Nov 2013

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Life

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

Australia, cultural practice, Darwin, Food, holiday meals, life, Thanksgiving

When I arrived in Australia, 30 years ago, I wanted to continue the practice of gratitude and Thanksgiving in my new home. That was an ambition much easier dreamed, than done.

We lived in Darwin, a small, tropical city, population about eighty thousand in those days. I wanted to make as many of the foods that my Mother made for our family Thanksgiving dinners as I could, but I had never done the entire meal on my own!  So, naturally, I invited 8 other people to witness my crash and burn publicly.

Getting a turkey was the first hurdle.  They were not that easy to come by, and I had to find someone who would order one sent up from ‘down south’.  Mostly, turkeys were saved for Christmas here, and getting one a full month ahead was not easy.  And for that matter, sweet potatoes were not even common in Darwin back then! Some years, butternut pumpkin (‘squash’ as it is called in America) had to be substituted. Adding to the challenge, I had only been in the country four months at this stage.  I was still learning the metric system, converting recipes, and learning where to shop and what things were called.

On the actual day, which of course is not a holiday here, and is always on a Thursday, my husband and all the guests were at work.  I rose early and began the preparations.  First I made the pies.  Not a particularly easy task at the best of times, but trying to roll out pie crust in a hot and humid climate (no air conditioning) was a challenge.  As Don will tell you, more than one batch of pie dough got thrown into the bin, often followed by tears and expletives. The pumpkin filling could not be bought in cans, as it is in America, so the day before I had baked the raw pumpkin and scooped out the flesh for my pies. I learned from experience the best way to do this, and the best pumpkin to use, but I got lucky that first year, it was still passable. (spices mask a multitude of sins, you know, just ask the Venetians from the Middle ages)

After the pies there were green beans to prepare, sweet potatoes and even homemade bread rolls to bake, and it all had to be done in sequence because I had a very small oven (American ovens are huge compared to a standard Australian one).  And the kitchen was sweltering.  The building site a couple of blocks away was in full swing and the rumbling from it broke through my haze of perspiration every now and then.

Along about 2pm that afternoon, I was making what my Mother’s family called ‘dressing’. It is what others call ‘stuffing’ but because we didn’t stuff the bird with it, we called it dressing.  It is a savoury bread pudding, really, especially prized in our family for it’s buttery, crusty edges.  I was at the sink, looking out the open louvers, enjoying the leafy branches (our government flat was on the first floor – see Before, After and the Journey for a photo of the kitchen).  As I was literally elbow-deep using my hands to mix the large bowl of bread, herbs, onion, eggs and milk together, the distant rumble of the building site seemed to have taken on a deeper tone. Instinctively I looked around into the living room in case the noise, now accompanied by some kind of extra sensory experience, was other than the building site.  Oh my, it WAS something else! The ceiling fan was wobbling crazily from side to side, and then I realised the building was feeling unstable as well.

I quickly wiped my hands and ran into the living room looking out either side’s banks of louvers and wondering what was happening… and perhaps more importantly what I should do about it!  Getting out of the building seemed like the thing to do so I raced down the stairs to the ground level and glanced around.  The Hills Hoist clothesline was wobbling wildly in the ground, and our Toyota Landcruiser truck in the parking lot was bouncing excitedly.

“I wonder if this is an earthquake?” I thought, having never experienced one before.  And then it stopped.  The whole scenario lasted less than two minutes, but minutes that are forever etched into my memory.

There was hardly anyone around in the middle of the afternoon on a weekday.  Eventually I decided it was safe to go back into the flat. All the power had been knocked out, and there was an eerie quiet.  Thankfully the phone was still working. (no mobile phones in 1983!) In a little while it rang! Such relief to hear my husband’s voice!  He confirmed that the big shake was indeed an earthquake, out in the Timor Sea.  He told me they’d had to evacuate the school and once things were under control there, he’d be home to help me.  Meanwhile, I had a meal to cook for 10 people… and no electricity.

My new friend, Ivy, worked at the same school as Don. She and I were soul-mates when it came to our love of food and she immediately wondered if I had a means by which to finish cooking the meal (to which she and her husband were invited that evening).  So another phone call came to tell me Ivy was on her way.  She would take the turkey to their house, only five minutes away, and cook it in her gas oven.  Bless.  At least we would have turkey and pie that evening.

Fortunately within a couple of hours the power was returned and I could finish cooking the meal.  We ate around 8pm, and my recollection is that it was well received and successful, especially considering the circumstances.  It was certainly a day to be grateful if ever there was one!

I have this one precious photo of that first Thanksgiving, and the rest of the memories are but flawed pictures in my mind.

1983 Thanksgiving

1983 Thanksgiving

(In case you are wondering, there was a bit of damage to some buildings in Darwin, but not much considering the quake was about 5 on the Richter scale.  There was some doubt about the strength of the tremor in Darwin, due to the fact that the monitoring equipment is set for very low levels of movement.  The buildings are constructed to a very high cyclone code since virtually all of Darwin was destroyed in 1974 by Cyclone Tracy, and that is why there was relatively little damage.)

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Before, After and the Journey

18 Monday Nov 2013

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Life

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Darwin, Kitchens, life, tropical living

While sorting through a pile of old photos, I recently discovered a couple of the kitchen in the government flat where Don and I lived when I first came to Australia (1983).  We lived there about 4 years while saving money to build our own place.  It was probably as comfortable as any place in Darwin, given the tropical climate, and the fact that almost no one had air conditioning at home.  A romantic notion prevailed that louvers and breezes were enough to live comfortably.  And they were, if all you did was lie in bed under a fan and drink iced tea all day.

Two months after my arrival in Darwin

Two months after my arrival in Darwin

We had four seasons… just not the traditional ones. The Dry Season was from June to August, the ‘build up’ was from September until whenever it started raining, usually about December or January. The Rainy Season, or Green Season as they now call it, was from whenever it started raining until it stopped, usually around March or April, after which the transition season was called the ‘Knock ‘em Downs’.  Strong winds would blow, knocking down the grasses that had grown tall during the wet season.  The flat was most comfortable in the ‘Dry’, but also quite pleasant if there was a proper ‘Wet’ and the humid breezes would blow through the louvers acting a bit like evaporative air conditioning… sort of.

'Before' kitchen, 1983

‘Before’, the bachelor’s kitchen, 1983

'After' kitchen 1984

‘After’, the wife arrives, kitchen 1984

The kitchen in the Smith Street flat was almost never cool, but I was young and in love.  We had a toaster and when I arrived on the scene I bought a hand held mixer and eventually a food processor.  And sometime early on, Don bought me a little rotating fan! That was it.  We had no dishwasher or microwave or any other appliances.  No place to put them anyway.  The storage in the kitchen was not great and what was there was not efficient.  But that kitchen was where I learned to cook.

The house we moved into after the flat was one we had built.  It was a ‘high set’ house, built on poles, to catch the tropical breezes from the valley we overlooked.  That is a romantic way of saying, again, we had no air conditioning, except for one small unit in our bedroom. We decided it would afford us a good night’s sleep when the overnight lows were hot and humid.

1988 Kitchen on Nudl St.

1988 Kitchen on Nudl St.

The kitchen in the house on Nudl Street was a big step up in the world.  We had a dishwasher and a microwave! And soon, we had a baby!  On the back of this photo I had written:  “Barefoot.  Pregnant.  In the Kitchen.  I have probably set the women’s movement back 20 years with this photo”!

There were a couple of other kitchens in between that one and the one we have now, but I somehow missed taking photos of them, too busy cooking, probably.  One of them was nice, but small, the other, well, let’s just say you aren’t missing anything!

Old kitchen 2010

Old kitchen 2010

New kitchen 2010

New kitchen 2010

Three years ago, I finally got one of my dream kitchens (there are several).  I spent over 100 hours planning and drawing.  I measured each of the more important appliances and utensils, designing storage for what I had and how I wanted to use it.  A place for every thing, and every thing in its place.  This kitchen is a joy to use.

Is the food coming out of it any better than in that first little kitchen?  I doubt it. It was all made with love. But the journey has been fun and rather tasty.

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Go for the Gado!

25 Sunday Aug 2013

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Food, Recommendations

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Food, Gado Gado, healthy eating, home-cooked, preserving rammed earth, rammed earth house

Phew! The house smells awful this morning.  Our ‘house doctor’ is putting the sealer on the outside to protect the rammed earth.  This has to be done usually around every 4 years.  The product we use is called Rain Coat and it is a silicon based sealer that cleans up with turpentine.  All the others we have seen are xylene based and that stuff will rot your liver!  But the Rain Coat still smells when you first put it on.

Masking

Masking

Spraying

Spraying

It takes longer to mask all the windows and doors than it does to actually spray on the sealer.  DD (Darling Donald, Doctor Don, take your pick…) uses a low pressure garden sprayer and it works perfectly.  He gives it two coats but there is very little drying time required between coats, so it is not like using acrylic paint on your walls.  He does it in the winter though, because when the air is too warm application doesn’t work as well.

We divide our domestic jobs pretty well, and some, like the gardening, we share.  Yesterday, while he was masking everything off in preparation for the spraying, I was cooking.  Well, actually, cooking is a bit of a stretch… I was steaming vegetables, making rice, and I did the tiniest bit of cooking  to make the peanut sauce.  Gado Gado is a favourite meal of ours since our earliest days in Darwin… (I mentioned it in a post a couple of months ago… Darwin-Now)

In those days I took it for granted because once a week we could go to the markets and buy it.  But then we moved to Alice 22 years ago and the only Asian food one could get here was Chinese.  So I learned to make our own Gado-Gado, thanks to Charmain Solomon, and, as you do, modified things a bit to suit our tastes and to make it a little easier on the cook.  It is not difficult, just tedious to steam all those vegetables.

And here is the end result…

Gado-Gado with rice and peanut sauce

Gado-Gado with rice and peanut sauce

I share with you my time tested, okay, modified recipe, and hope you will try it sometime.  It is fairly healthy providing you don’t smother things with gallons of peanut sauce, though that is very tempting.  The spicy peanut sauce brings all the flavours together so nicely. Thank goodness, of all the things I am sensitive to, peanut butter is not one of them!  If you want a protein component in addition to the egg and peanut sauce, cook a few chicken satay skewers on the grill, over charcoal if you can, lovely flavour!  The origins of this dish are Indonesian/Malaysian.

I’ve posted the recipe under the FOOD heading here on my blog, scroll down and you will see it.

Must go cook something so I can stop smelling turpentine…

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Darwin – now

02 Tuesday Jul 2013

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Life, photography, Travel

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Darwin, Food, photography, Travel

My posts have been pretty wordy this week, so I’ll give you a break by sharing some photos of our four days in Darwin. Writing and taking photos to share with you causes me to look at things with somewhat altered perspective, which I really enjoy. I hope you will too. (I have prepared this post bit by bit while on the move the last five days. There are a couple of undesirable anomalies in the format which I ask you to forgive. My abilities or the software seem unable to rectify them!)

red papaya

red papaya

Food in Darwin has always been fabulous, and it has only gotten better over the years. The diverse group of people living here have contributed their own cuisines to the great advantage of the culture of Darwin. The fresh red papaya with a squirt of lime juice over it is simple, but delicious. A favourite stir fry dish called Kway Teow is made in as many different ways as there are cooks who make it.

Kway Teow

Kway Teow

On this trip Don and I have gotten up each morning to go for a walk before going our separate ways. I guess we have a tourist’s view of Darwin these days, so you are seeing things more from that perspective.

20130628-133702.jpg
In the time it takes to walk from one end of the Smith Street Mall to the other (or less!) you can go from the sublime Paspaley pearls to the ridiculous local characters.

20130628-134030.jpg

Darwin locals

Darwin locals

Rocksitters

Rocksitters

At high tide the shoreline is lovely, though mostly rocky. But the tides are huge and so at low tide one might be quite shocked at how far out they’d have to go to reach the water, nearly half a kilometre at times.

The bush around Darwin holds a few hidden gems but in places it is rather unwelcoming. Within minutes of seeing this sign about the biting insects, I had numerous sand fly (biting midges) bites on my arms and legs! Ah, yes, the good ole days… not.

The 'biteys' are out!

The ‘biteys’ are out!

20130628-134805.jpg

20130628-134853.jpg
20130628-134734.jpg

Turkey bush (above), coral tree (left) and Kapok (right) are bush favourites of mine. Forty five minutes out of the city on Paperbark Way is a classic Paperbark swamp, which my husband tells me can also hold some of the very big lizards. (Called crocodiles!)

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The Parap Markets nearby the city started a little under 30 years ago. we remember the first few primitive stalls selling gado gado and noodle soups. Today it is quite large with a variety of frsh fruit and veg, Asian specialty dishes, and Territory curiosities.
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These days Darwin is fun to visit, but I don’t long for my days of spotlighting crocodiles at night from a dingy in the billabongs, or mopping sweat from my brow as I mop the floors. In the dead of Alice Springs winter, the markets, the characters, and , the dry season here are all attractive, but only for a visit… and to reminisce.

(The header photo on this blog is one taken in the Darwin Botanic Gardens.)

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How the Woman got her Man – The Prequel/Pt 2

30 Sunday Jun 2013

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Life, Travel

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Darwin, life, Travel

I suppose we are lucky when we are young that we understand so little about what can go wrong in life, and in relationships. Some months after Don’s visit to Denver it became clear to me that I needed to leave the job I had moved to Denver to take. (It was nothing to do with him, just the coincidental timing of an epiphany about the job) After a year as the Creative Services Manager, I resigned, but this time without another job on the horizon. It wasn’t long before the synchronicity of Life stepped in again and within a month I was relocated in Florida, working for my old boss and living in West Palm Beach. He called me to come and work for him! Meanwhile I had agreed to meet Don in Hong Kong for Christmas. What is the John Lennon saying… life is what happens while we are busy making plans?

I needed to fly from the east coast of the USA to meet Don in Hong Kong and I was in no way prepared for the long flight or the crowds when I came out of immigration at the airport. Somehow he found me, or we found each other, in the sea of humanity. (rather prophetic in the grand scheme when I think back on it!) In those days we travelled on a shoe string and we were booked to stay that night, and subsequent two weeks, at the YMCA. In those days it was a prime location in the city, now replaced by an expensive high-rise. The airplane had landed on a runway that stretched into the water, but looks are deceiving. There were water shortages in Hong Kong that resulted in no water in the ‘Y’ after 9pm… and it was 10 when I arrived. Just what you want is to arrive to meet your ‘love’ after 24 hours of not being able to have a shower or brush your teeth and be able to do neither! We made the best of it!!

Hong Kong was the most exotic place I had ever visited, having only traveled in Europe, and North America previously. The smells, sounds and sights were all so amazing to me. These were still the days when England held Hong Kong, before it was turned over to China. It was a very exciting experience, if somewhat confronting at times. A side trip to Macau further excited and confused me. It was originally a Portuguese settled area which had remnants of European architecture, and a huge gambling casino, the first I had ever visited. On the street I saw a man with two dead puppies in his hand, most likely on his way to cook them for lunch, or sell them to a restaurant! Back in Honk Kong There were dried ducks and fish hanging in their desiccated entirety in front of shops… birds and reptiles, both alive and powdered, in Chinese medicinal emporiums. It was an assault on the senses, I suppose.

And then I got the flu. And things deteriorated from there. I was pretty much unable to get out of bed for a couple of days, and even after that I could hardly taste food, such a waste in a place with good food on every corner! Traipsing around the busy city was of little interest to me either. Don went out on his own a couple of times retrieving a piece of fruit for me, or to let me rest. Finally after a few miserable days I was determined to get myself up and around again, since our time was coming to an end. We decided on our final day to take a ferry ride to a small fishing island, Cheung Chau. But there were clouds on the horizon, and I don’t mean where the sky meets the sea…

The pressure and enormity of trying figure out a way to combine our two diverse lives was taking its toll. Our conversation on the ferry ride back to Hong Kong was useless. He could not see how we could do it, and was also full of trepidation for all the people he had seen come to Darwin to ‘save their relationships’ only to have them fall in a heap, regardless. I was smart enough to know that I didn’t want to be with someone who didn’t want to be in the relationship. On the plane home to the USA I was a puddle of tears.

I was determined to move on with my life. Six months came and went. After a few months I was ready to face the world of dating again, though not with much enthusiasm. I had one date…a ‘fix-up’ with a divorced man looking for a mother to his children. Aaarrgghhh. The entire date was like an interview for a job that I didn’t want! I decided I was happy with my own company, thank you very much, and the dating scene was put on the back burner again.

In late July of 1982, there came a knock at the door. My landlord, who lived in the other half of the duplex I was renting, held out a letter to me. It was blue. Aerogramme-from-Australia-blue. I knew it well. He explained he’d found the letter underneath some leaves as he was raking near the place where we parked our cars. He thought it must have blown out of the letterbox at some point, and into the leaves. The postmark on it was from two months previous! I wasn’t even sure I wanted to know what was inside the letter, but eventually my curiosity got the better of me.

Don was coming to the US on his long service leave and wanted to see me. By then, due to the delay in the letter, he would arrive in three days’ time!! Not much time for me to think. When he rang me the next week I told him I couldn’t see that anything had changed and that our situation was the same as before. He was very insistent and eventually wore me down. He was staying with his Dad on the West coast of Florida but they had a second car that he could borrow and so he drove the 3.5 or so hours to the East coast to see me. When he arrived at my front door he had brought me a gift of a potted plant with such large foliage I couldn’t see his face. We both laughed and it broke the ice.

Eventually, we had the conversations we needed to have and he went off to tour South America for two months before returning to Florida. When he returned his Dad invited us to go with he and his wife on a cruise to the Bahamas. On that cruise we decided to marry, and that whatever our different jobs and places of residence, we were not marrying them, we were marrying each other and we would adjust the rest of it to suit us.

Six months later we married. Myself and a few goods and chattels came for the first time to the shores of Australia… Darwin was the beginning of my new life.

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How the Woman Got Her Man (and a new country in the process…)

27 Thursday Jun 2013

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Life, People, Travel

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Australia, love, Ohio, romance, Travel

Subtitle: Moving to Australia: The Prequel/part 1

As I write this during a brief visit to Darwin, it is nearly incomprehensible how I came to live here thirty years ago. Perhaps if I recount the story to you, it will seem more real…

Don and I grew up in the same little town in southern Ohio, a whole other lifetime ago, it now seems. We knew each other and our families because growing up in a Midwest town of 2500, everyone either knew you or knew of you. The former was usually better than the latter! We had good friends in common, but more pertinent to our history (and fate) was that Don had worked for my Dad. Anyone who knew my Dad will tell you he tolerated no nonsense from anyone, and especially when it came to his daughter. I won’t say that is exactly why we never dated because to be perfectly honest, I was ‘jail bait’ in those days, at 4.5 years his junior. So, in this case, knowing of each other was the more discretionary path.

Years passed and I graduated high school just when Don was graduating from Ohio State University. We saw each other briefly and he told me he was off to Australia. Wha??? Australia had a shortage of math and science teachers and was recruiting from the UK, Canada, and the USA. If a person ‘signed up’ the Australian government would pay their way over and back as long as they stayed a minimum of two years. I told him to write to me and, being the good letter writer I have always been, I wrote back when, eventually, he did write. In those days it took weeks to get a letter from Australia to the USA, and it was nearly a month if you asked a question before you received the answer by return mail!

We lost touch for a while. He moved about 18 times in the first 10 years he was in Australia, because that is what many young, single people did in those days. He kept the same job, just moved his few boxes of possessions from flat to shared house. Before I knew it, I was finished with my Uni education and was working hard in the television business as an artist, and traveling whenever I could. My cousin, who is more like my sister, married Don’s best mate from high school, and even though they had moved to Wyoming they came to Ohio for visits and caught up with lots of folks in town. Once, when she was visiting Ohio I mentioned I’d had a series of dreams in which Don was the central figure! They were right out of the blue as I’d had no contact with him for a few years. Even at the age of 27 I was beginning to understand that there are no coincidences in Life, only things we do not understand. During this conversation, Donna said ‘We just saw his Mother and she gave us his address, would you like it?’ I may not believe in coincidence, but I am always surprised at the inventiveness of the Universe to give us what we need, when we need it.

Shortly after this, as fortune would have it, my new boss at the TV station, WKRC in Cincinnati, encouraged me to look for work elsewhere as they wanted to hire all new people. TV can be almost as brutal and soul destroying as politics at times. As with most of life’s changes it all worked for the best and I found another job that took me to Denver, Colorado. A couple of months after writing, I received an answer to my letter which Don described as being ‘a bolt out of the blue’. Indeed. He was going to be in Ohio for Christmas, as was I. Since he usually visited my parents when he was in the US anyway, he said he’d pop around while I was in town for those few days.

I can still remember seeing him from the kitchen window of my parents’ home when he walked up the driveway, and feeling a bit giddy and excited. All that without a word spoken!! As he was leaving the house I made the statement that sealed his fate! “On your way back to Australia, why don’t you stop in Denver and spend a few days?” And then a couple of weeks later, he sealed my fate, by doing it! So Denver was where we properly fell in love…with the annual Stock Show as background, no less!! But we neither one breathed that four letter word until after he had left to return to Australia. We had four perfect days together and it was agony when I took him to the airport. Then, about 48 hours later, the phone rang and it was a fairly inebriated Donald on the other end, calling collect from Singapore and professing his love for me! It was the making of a script for a movie! Perhaps Channing Tatum and Rachel McAdams will be interested…

Shortly thereafter I moved to a new job in West Palm Beach, Florida. We wrote letters (phone calls were so expensive in those days) all year long, scheming how we would see each other again. Finally, we agreed to meet for Christmas (1981) in Hong Kong. Oh wow, I marvel now at the strength given me to make that trip… That ill-fated trip, as it turned out…. You will have to wait a day or two for the next instalment. Though I do realise you know the ending, remember the road of true love never runs smoothly, and it wouldn’t be a good movie script without a little heartache 😉

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Moving to Australia-Darwin Poison

26 Wednesday Jun 2013

Posted by Ardys in Darwin, Food, Life, Travel

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

Australia, Darwin, mangos

I am writing this in Darwin, where it all began for me — my life in Australia, that is. Thirty years ago Darwin was as close to frontier living as I was game for. It had some considerable challenges for this thirty year old Ohio transplant. When I first came here, at the end of our honeymoon, everyone kept telling me how different Darwin was to the rest of Australia. Because I hadn’t seen the rest of Australia, I wasn’t at all sure to what they referred. But it was certainly unique to my living experience. And then of course there was a new marriage to get used to as well. We had spent a total of six weeks together before our wedding day. We knew a fair bit about each other by the time we got together, however, having grown up in the same small town, a story for another post!

Three weeks after arriving to Darwin as newlyweds, Don asked me if I would mind for him to go to the yearly ‘fishing competition’ for the weekend. As an uninitiated newbie to the larrikin character of the Northern Territory, I actually thought is was a competition for fishing. Silly me. I later learned the fishing was secondary to the drinking and crazy behaviour of the participants. Well okay, boys will be boys. I was a fairly independent person and thought I would be fine for the weekend. Silly me, again.

It was a Friday when Don left for the bush, directly from work. I had my own ‘nesting’ plans as I was still trying to convert a bachelor’s flat into something that more closely resembled a couple’s abode. We both ate beautiful fresh mango for breakfast, the way the Asians eat them, cutting the ‘cheeks’ off from the large seed, scoring it and turning it inside out to eat the sections off the skin, one by one. Nothing better than a fresh Bowen mango.

Don gone to work, I set off into town, about a fifteen minute walk each way, to get a few supplies for my weekend. As I walked the sun was already very strong and I was unused to the humidity, even in what was still the ‘dry season’. My lips felt uncomfortable and by the time I got home they were blistered, similar to a cold sore. But it was tolerable, and I really had no idea what to do, and no vehicle or driver’s licence yet to take myself anywhere to see about it. I could have taken a taxi if it was an emergency. I thought the sun had just been very strong and had burnt my lips. What else could it be?

Next morning I woke up, but realised I could barely see out of my eyes. Now I was worried. Very shortly after, a friend and colleague of Don’s who had told him she would call around to check in with me, came knocking at the door of our flat. Oh drat, I thought, a new friend to see me in this swollen, blotchy state! Ivy was a tiny Chinese woman, very wise in the ways of the tropics, and particularly about food. She took one look at me staring back at her through slits that used to be eyes, and burst out laughing! “Have you been eating mangos?” She asked. I answered in the affirmative and she laughed again and said “You have mango poisoning!” If she had not been laughing so much I would have probably been very concerned at anything with ‘poison’ in the description. I have since learned there are a lot of poisonous things in Australia!

She assured me it was likely to pass in a day or so, but she told me she’d telephone later to see how I was. By the time Don returned late Sunday afternoon, I looked completely normal again. It was good I had Ivy as witness because I think he almost doubted my story! It turns out that the mango is in the poison ivy family! Who knew? The milky sap in the skin of the fruit, leaves and branches is the most worrying element, but it turned out over the years I gradually became sensitive to the flesh of the fruit as well.

So welcome to Australia, not only do we have the world’s most poisonous snakes and spiders but the fruit has a bit of a bite as well!

Please let me know if you would like me to write more about my adventures of moving to and living in Australia.

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