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ardysez

~ surrender to yourself

ardysez

Tag Archives: Spain

hurts so good…

13 Saturday Oct 2018

Posted by Ardys in Travel

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

England, life, Spain, Travel, USA

Three days home. Travel brain is nearly gone and home-brain is working again. Mostly.

We have been away traveling for nearly six weeks. I was going to give you a heads up that I might not be writing and then, with no warning, I developed a nasty head cold a week out from departure. It did not go away before flying. This is not a good thing. If you have ever had to fly when your sinuses are in turmoil, you will know what I mean. In fact the cough and sinus stuff did not leave until three weeks into the trip. So, I was not feeling like writing much of anything and hope you understand.

fullsizeoutput_4906

Guggenheim exterior, Bilbao, Spain

Travel is a good thing. It is. But it is not among the easier undertakings one might pursue. When I say travel, I’m not talking about a vacation to the beach where you bask all day, between margaritas and naps. Our version of travel, while perhaps not arduous, does deplete one’s energy. We walk a lot, see a lot, process a lot of information. Therein lies the second physical challenge for this trip. Walking. I have had a sore foot for months. It gets better and then worse, then even worse still, which it did on the trip. ‘Plantar Fasciitis’ is a common problem for which there is not much known about either cause or cure. Some things work and some don’t. Sometimes it leaves and sometimes it doesn’t. I know because I had it 15 or so years ago and that is exactly what I experienced. The exercises the podiatrist gave me did not work, in fact made it worse. Stopping them, adding stretches of my own saw it go away in a couple of months. This time I’ve had it much longer, have tried both the previous methods of stretching, as well as nothing, had a couple of days of complete absence of symptoms but essentially nothing has fixed it. So I walked. In pain. For six weeks.

I dropped into bed every night of the trip, exhausted mentally and physically, but did actually manage to take in the experiences and enjoy it for the most part. Just not the pain.

wells-cathedral-england

Well’s Cathedral Musical Director practicing with musicians for a future performance.

And while we are at it, there are a few other things I will enjoy not dealing with for a while.

  1. having to forage for every meal based on food intolerances. This is not easy and I spent a good deal of the time being hungry. Yes, I lost weight.
  2. having a different shower to figure out with each and every change of accommodation…It is a fact, every hotel in the world has a different shower mechanism from every other hotel. Am sure there was a primordial agreement in the ethers that caused this to happen.
  3. soooo much processed food…if it says on the packet it is healthy for you, it isn’t. Generally, food that is good for you doesn’t come in packets. And while I’m thinking of it, not everything must be consumed on a waffle or wrapped in bread, piled on pasta or rice or have onion or garlic flavouring added.
  4. searching for a place to wash our clothes—I nearly kissed my washing machine when we returned home. What do other travellers do to clean their clothes? Hand washing is just not possible, most hotels and B&B’s don’t even allow it, and frankly, hand washing is not my idea of travel fun.
  5. crowds—I can hear the neighbour’s little dog yapping this morning, and even that is music to my ears compared to crowded, noisy places.
  6. the smell of cigarette smoke in front of every building on every street in every country.
  7. filthy toilets–having to lay toilet paper on the seat before I can sit down, because there are never paper seat covers in the toilets where they are needed, only the cleanest ones have them! Humans are filthy creatures at times.
  8. bad coffee—there are a lot of people who don’t realise you can have the best coffee machine but if the beans are bad, it won’t make good coffee. Likewise, stewing coffee or storing it in an urn is just ruining any chance that coffee has of being good.
  9. loud mouth people in airports, especially on their cell/mobile phones (don’t you know everyone around can hear you? and does not care about your employee problems??)
  10. crappy hairdryers–(my husband hypothesised, there must have been someone traveling just ahead of us putting the same bad hairdryer in each different hotel, or there had been an excellent sales pitch to sell the same inferior device to four different hotel chains!) I have a new shorn hair style and vow not to need a hairdryer for future travels.
  11. bad lighting in bathrooms—worst lighting prize went to two, otherwise nice, B&B’s, best lighting prize goes to the Sheraton at the Falls in Niagara Falls, with a magnification makeup/shaving mirror with it’s own lighting as well as a surround light for the large mirror. Bless them.
  12. filthy, smelly taxis—our daughter has promised to explain to us how to use UBER. Nuff said.
  13. and while I’m at it, taxi drivers who use their phones while driving (not to mention bus drivers who talk on their phone WHILE filling out paperwork, WHILE driving—please leave multitasking to people who are not driving, or walking down the street)
  14. High fructose corn syrup—my sworn enemy.

The foot is strapped and receiving regular ice packs. The mountain of laundry is done, repairs to the garden are nearly done. And there are murmurs…of future adventure…

What keeps me traveling? I’m glad you asked. The mechanics of it are tiring, frustrating and downright unpleasant at times. However…when things take my breath away, or a sudden connection of a piece of knowledge turns on a light inside me, or something unexpected brings me to tears, it feels all worthwhile. When I see Wells Cathedral and a lump sticks in my throat, when I am gobsmacked by the incredible Guggenheim at Bilbao, when a Spanish woman spins her grandson in dance to a Basque folk song, when the most powerful show of water I’ve ever seen tumbles and mesmerises so that I can hardly look away, or when I stop in an ancient cemetery and realise that the man in that grave signed the Declaration of Independence…that is when I know I’m not done yet.

It hurts so good…give me more.

Samuel Adams resting place in downtown Boston, Mass.
Samuel Adams resting place in downtown Boston, Mass.
Niagara Falls from the Canadian side
Niagara Falls from the Canadian side
Dancing to the Basque Folk songs in Donostia-San Sebastian
Dancing to the Basque Folk songs in Donostia-San Sebastian

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In My Kitchen – September 2015 (how the Ghan nearly ruined my Spanish lunch)

02 Wednesday Sep 2015

Posted by Ardys in In My Kitchen

≈ 21 Comments

Tags

Alice Springs, Australia, fish, salad, Spain, The Alhambra, The Ghan

Five years ago Don and I visited Granada, Spain to see the Alhambra (so named because of the Arabic name for its reddish walls). Our very first meal, aside from the Hotel’s fabulous breakfast, was lunch in a cafe adjacent to the Alhambra. It was a sunny spring day and the outside tables were perfect. Uncertain about ordering meals, and various food intolerances making the uncertainty worse, I settled on a salad of oranges, fennel and cod. It turns out this is a very Spanish dish and we saw it a number of other times on various travels in Spain.

Breakfast pastries to die for
Breakfast pastries to die for
Interior at Alhambra
Interior at Alhambra
Classic Moorish arch at Alhambra
Classic Moorish arch at Alhambra
Paella in Granada
Paella in Granada
sculptured fruit display
sculptured fruit display

Since fennel and navel oranges are usually plentiful, and reasonable quality, here in winter, I decided I wanted to try and recreate my memory of the dish. The first challenge was to find some deep sea cod. It is not common here, not being near the deep sea and all! As I recalled, the Spanish original used salted cod but I’m not familiar with using that, soaking it etc, so I decided if I could find some fresh, frozen cod or other white sea fish, I would use that. I couldn’t see any cod in the groceries, so our butcher who sells a lot of good quality sea food was the next stop, and miracle of miracles, they had some. (I have not seen even the slightest hint of any since)

The morning I planned to make the salad I woke around 4am to the sound of the Ghan* train coming into Alice–about 12 hours late! They sound their horn upon arrival, even at 4am, it would seem. We are over a kilometre away from the station but in the quiet of the morning I could still hear it. My first thought was for the poor passengers who obviously had spent more time aboard than they had planned. Part of the Northern Territory adventure, I suppose.

Peeking through the fence at the Ghan in Alice railyard

Peeking through the fence at the Ghan in Alice railway yard

Since I was awake early I turned on the heater in the bathroom and while it was warming I snuggled back in bed for a little while. Winter in Alice is quite cold overnight. After showering and having breakfast I decided to do my grocery shopping early, although 9am would not be early in the summer! As soon as I was inside the grocery I could see the other problem with the Ghan’s late arrival. The produce section had many vacant gaps, the most worrying of which was the one where fennel is usually kept!! Despite best efforts to keep things on schedule, once in a while the Ghan hits sections of the track that have washed out, or some other difficulty. Such is the story of a train that runs through hundreds of kilometres of scrub and bushland.

I had bought the fish, and the orange, but what could I do without fennel? Time for some culinary conjuring! Somewhere in the back of my mind I seemed to remember that celery and fennel were from the same genus, though different species, and thinking that sliced very thinly they would have a similar texture, I decided to try celery in place of the fennel.

My humble recreation

My humble recreation

Cod baked with olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon

Cod baked with olive oil, salt, pepper, lemon

I baked the cod with only lemon, olive oil, salt, pepper and thinly slice lemons on top, tied in baking paper at 165C for about 20 minutes. I let them cool to room temperature because it was a salad. Meanwhile I peeled and sliced the orange thinly and used a mandolin to get the celery slices very, very thin. Once assembled on a plate I added another sprinkle of salt, a drizzle of good olive oil, and a squeeze of half a lemon. The original Spanish dish had thin slivers of red Spanish onion through it as well, but onion is something I’m unable to eat so I left it off. The result was delicious, nevertheless. I thought I had lost the photo of that special lunch, but after making what I remembered the dish to be like, the vast recesses of my grey matter led me to the five year previous photo! Next time I will add the radicchio (if I can find it), eggs and olives, now that I see what my memory had forgotten!! Now you know why I love photos so much!

That memorable meal

The glorious original

(*Ghan is short for Afghan, and the train is named for the many Afghanistani cameleers who helped settle Central Australia)

Special thanks to Celia for hosting our monthly kitchen get together. Visit her through the link and find other interesting kitchens around the world.

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We’re the People – Granada, Spain

07 Sunday Sep 2014

Posted by Ardys in People, Travel, We're the People

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Granada, Holy Week, Penance Procession, people, Spain, Travel

granada-passion-easter

Penance Procession, Granada

This may seem a strange photo to show when talking about ‘people’ as it almost seems devoid of them. However, if you look closely you will see dozens of feet showing at the bottom of the skirt of the “Pasos”, or float, carrying the statue. One of these floats is carried by each brotherhood in the city. It was Holy Week, the week preceding Easter, four years ago. I wish I could tell you how clever we were to plan to be there at that moment to see this stunning week of processions, but the truth is, it was an absolute fluke. The first evening we arrived at our hotel, we took a little walk before dinner and noticed something appeared to be about to happen in the pedestrian area of the city. In a short while hundreds had gathered and then in the distance we heard the somber music.

We have since learned that the people carrying the Pasos, practice for months ahead of the event. The weight is considerable and it takes great skill and strength to work in unison to move the heavy float from church to Cathedral. At some points the doorways are too low, so the penitents must kneel on pads and move forward to get the statue through.

The first sight we saw, preceding the Pasos, was that of the other penitents, wearing traditional cloaks and hoods. Having grown up in the years of the Ku Klux Klan and their much feared white hoods of similar design, it was a confronting sight. When I look at these photos I am reminded how educational and transformative travel can be.

Granada-procession-holyweek

Traditional robes and hoods

and regardless of the robes, how much children are the same, everywhere!!

granada-penance-holyweek

children in procession

(This is part of a series of photos based                                                                      on an original post titled ‘We’re the People‘)

Have a great week.

–Ardys

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Traveling on my stomach

28 Tuesday May 2013

Posted by Ardys in Food, Travel

≈ 14 Comments

Tags

bread, Darwin, Food, France, Russia, Spain, Travel

Image 2

I am a woman who thinks about lunch while still eating breakfast.  I regularly photograph my food and frequently the plates of those eating beside me. I’ve written a bit about food in early blogs (see Passing Great Grandma’s Baton) but decided I didn’t want to write a food blog, as such.  However, I need to write about it occasionally.  What am I going to do with all these photos if I don’t blog them now and then??

There are people who don’t really care about food except as sustenance.  I am not one of them.  If you are one of them, stop reading now, you won’t enjoy this post.  Every morsel of food I eat is precious to me.  If possible, I like it to be beautiful, delicious and healthy, all at the same time. When pressed, I will settle for two out of three, beautiful and delicious… or just delicious if it’s absolutely necessary.  I’ve been known to choose rosy Corella pears at the grocery so I could photograph or draw them.  Eating them later was the happy by-product. When we travel, I love to roam around fresh food markets, or gourmet shops, to learn about foods I’ve never eaten or even seen.

IMG_2836Who knew Lingonberries were plentiful in Sweden in September?  Or the Germans make an awesome sweet cinnamon and sugar pretzel?IMG_0054  The world is a giant food bowl of surprises.

We’ve had more than a few standout food moments in recent years.  And I’ve photographed many of them! The creme brûlée below was one of them.  Total surprise, recommended by our waitress at a pub called Le Winch Restaurant in Lyon, France.  Honestly, it was almost worth a trip back.IMG_1702

Photographing food and publishing the photos is called ‘food porn’, did you know that?  Very disappointing.  The photos are nice mementos but hardly do justice to the joyous brain waves I had while eating the subject matter.  Hmmmm, perhaps I do get the ‘porn’ reference….

Can I talk about bread for a moment?  Specifically the croissant…in France… with a few tiny fragments of fresh butter here and there.  Heaven. They are just not the same anywhere else.  Sorry.  I’ve done the research.  IMG_2857Having said that, however, the Germans and the Russians know their way around a wonderful loaf of bread too, studded with fennel or caraway, rustic and crusty on the outside, chewy on the inside.  And look at my English friend Joanna’s raisin kefir loaf! Salivating just writing about it…

The American Jewish delicatessens make Rueben sandwiches, and corned beef and fresh pickles like no one else. Remember the restaurant scene from the movie ‘When Harry Met Sally’?  I’ve eaten there, and she was not faking it.  She was having the best pastrami on rye of her life!!  A good Deli (Katz Delicatessen) is a treasure to experience regularly.  IMG_3245We have been known to stay in a hotel because we know it is near a good Deli.  Seriously.

The Spanish know how to eat breakfast… luscious cheese in one hand, a sweet pastry in the other, and a side of fresh figs.  OMG.IMG_0098IMG_2408

I fondly recall… Magnolia’s Restaurant in Charleston, my cousin’s awesome home cooking in Wyoming, delicious Alsace cuisine near Washington DC, spectacular whole Thai fish in Darwin, Tarte Tatin in Paris, the world’s best hot chocolate in Bratislava.  I could go on, and on…

IMG_0224Image 7

IMG_3303Whole fried fish with Thai Chilli SauceIMG_1681

And I will, another time, but just now I hear a piece of dark chocolate calling my name…              So much good food, so little time.

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